So I just finished my DIY eD A5s-325 (13av.2 and Lt.500 Sealed) and would like to finish it. I have sanded it quite a bit to make it smooth and ever already. My uncle runs his automotive reconditioning business out of our shop and has all the tools and materials to paint including automotive paint. My question is what primer would work best. I have tried googling this but there are so many different things to sort through. I would like what the product is and where I could find it. I plan on using a metallic flake black paint.
Seal the seams with a body filler and any parts that are the cut edges. Then just do the normal paint steps. There are more then a few guys that have had it done for them at autobody shops, and I'm pretty sure when they drop them off the guys aren't going out and snagging a different primer.
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'05 xA BSP
x889, Nine.2x, Nine.1, a ton of edead, e9.65i's, 13av.2, velvet is gone, vinyl is in, lighting is coming
Here's my plan. I have a few screws that did not fully counter-sink themselves, so I'm going to take one out at a time and counter-sink each one. After that I have some Glazer Body Filler that I will use to go over the edges, joints, and screw holes with. Then I will sand everything down with a 220 till smooth. After that I'll apply a couple coats of sandable wood primer to the box, with some sanding inbetween each coat of course. I plan to use the Chevrolet color "Black Granite Metallic" for the top coat with some automotive clear to go over top. I will make sure I post pictures as I go!
Just get a tube of Elmer's wood filler, or something similar. Squeeze it onto your finger or putty knife, fill hole/gap, let dry and sand smooth.
It comes in several colors too.
That stuff is basically sawdust and PVA glue. Put it on more than about 1/16" thick and it's going to shrink and crack, you'll end up having to put it on again. Ask me how I know this.
My personal favorite for priming MDF is water cleanup polyurethane varnish, brushed on. The MDF will suck it up and it will dry almost instantly for the first two coats. It won't matter if you seal the ends of MDF. Keep putting it on until the surface tacks up and you see brush strokes. Then wait for it to dry. Sand. Repeat until no bare MDF is exposed. Then put on two more coats. Then do a sandable primer, and then color and clear. The main reason I like this is that the brush on poly goes on much faster and neater than spray primers, and it costs a hell of a lot less. Also, soaking into the MDF makes it much tougher and less apt to dent or chip the color coat.
I've tried a bunch of paints on MDF and unless you have a professional paint booth setup it's difficult to get a decent finish on MDF. The solvents in lacquer finishes soften the PVA glues, which lets the finish move a little, and the PVA under the finish shows through. The polyurethanes block the solvents much better, I have yet to see the same joint print-through on boxes I built 3 years ago. The boxes I built using high-build spray primer all show the seams now.
That stuff is basically sawdust and PVA glue. Put it on more than about 1/16" thick and it's going to shrink and crack, you'll end up having to put it on again. Ask me how I know this.
My personal favorite for priming MDF is water cleanup polyurethane varnish, brushed on. The MDF will suck it up and it will dry almost instantly for the first two coats. It won't matter if you seal the ends of MDF. Keep putting it on until the surface tacks up and you see brush strokes. Then wait for it to dry. Sand. Repeat until no bare MDF is exposed. Then put on two more coats. Then do a sandable primer, and then color and clear. The main reason I like this is that the brush on poly goes on much faster and neater than spray primers, and it costs a hell of a lot less. Also, soaking into the MDF makes it much tougher and less apt to dent or chip the color coat.
I've tried a bunch of paints on MDF and unless you have a professional paint booth setup it's difficult to get a decent finish on MDF. The solvents in lacquer finishes soften the PVA glues, which lets the finish move a little, and the PVA under the finish shows through. The polyurethanes block the solvents much better, I have yet to see the same joint print-through on boxes I built 3 years ago. The boxes I built using high-build spray primer all show the seams now.
have you ever used a sanding sealer before painting?
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