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10-19-2009, 06:54 PM
 
Ok guys I just became a proud owner of a 19Ov.2 and LT/1300. I have designed a ported enclosure and already cut most of the pieces for it - then it dawned on me that I should ask you guys for some feedback before I glue it up.

Here is the front/side view


here is the port


The dimensions are 26H x 20W x 30D. Which puts the total box volume at ~ 7.5 cubes. Subtracting the volume of driver/amp/port it puts it at ~ 5.5 cubes. The port measures 2.5 x 18.5. The length of the port is about all I can change at this point. In the pictures it is 47 inches long but honestly I'm not sure what frequency that will put me at. I've gotten different figures from different programs

So I have 2 questions for you guys
1. How long should the port be to tune to ~ 20hz
2. How should I brace this thing
 
 
 
 
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10-19-2009, 07:03 PM
 
I get 47.86 for the length, you're good.
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10-19-2009, 09:52 PM
 
Looks like a solid design mang!

I'm not sure if a dowel through the port would cause any issues. Other than that, I would run a brace from the innermost port wall to the opposite wall and if you can from front baffle to rear baffle....
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10-20-2009, 01:24 AM
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by z-lite View Post
I get 47.86 for the length, you're good.
Thanks for the help!

Quote:
Originally Posted by joeybutts View Post
Looks like a solid design mang!

I'm not sure if a dowel through the port would cause any issues. Other than that, I would run a brace from the innermost port wall to the opposite wall and if you can from front baffle to rear baffle....
I literally took me longer to make that model in sketchup than it did to go to the store, buy the supplies, drive home, cut everthing, AND sit down to drink a beer.

I'm hoping that the front baffle won't have any flex b/c there is only an inch or two around the driver. Side to side is easy but front to back is difficult b/c of weird angles and the driver/amp in the way. What size dowels do you use?

I want to get to work on it but I don't think I'll have a chance to do anything until this weekend - having two jobs sucks.
 
 
 
 
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10-20-2009, 07:03 AM
 
you could use a dowel or use a "shelf" of mdf in the middle of the port which may be the better option. I wouldn't use anything less than an 1" dowel if you go that route. Let's see what some others think on the bracing of the port walls there, or if it is even necessary.
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10-20-2009, 09:32 PM
 


I wanted to see what it would look like in its spot I hope it sounds good here too! it's about the only place I can put it.
 
 
 
 
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10-20-2009, 09:48 PM
 
if it doesn't sound good, turn it around
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10-20-2009, 09:52 PM
 
That could actually help?
 
 
 
 
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10-20-2009, 10:00 PM
 
yeah, corner loading may get you some response, tough thing is will it give you the response in the seating... It looks like it is firing next to an opening there which could hurt. audio physics are a crazy thing. Sometimes the subs work in the most predictable of places, sometimes in the least. just going to take time, move it around, see what works best. In my apt, the best place for the sound was about 8 ft to the left of my seating in the far corner with the sub on the wall to the right of the seating. It was the best compromise in my current situation.
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10-20-2009, 10:13 PM
 
Yeah my living room layout is open on literally every wall and leaves very little space for furniture/speakers. That big opening in the pic is to the dining room/kitchen and is about 8ft wide. I never would have thought that facing the driver into a wall could make it sound better - that makes two options for positioning Maybe the little auto tune program on my receiver will help.
 
 
 
 
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10-20-2009, 10:14 PM
 
How far away from the wall would the port need to be?
 
 
 
 
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10-21-2009, 01:48 PM
 
Some of you know that enclosure design isnt one of my strong suits, but it's something Im very interested in. Overall from experience, I have never needed any bracing in any of my builds. I use a JL Audio W7 12inch subwoofer for my sub and there is no bracing in its enclosure. The sides, and port walls are 3/4 inch and the front plate is 1.5 inches. The box is held with wood screws(predrilled ofcourse) and liquid nails wood glue. i've stood on the box and it did not flex. Those of you who know, please let OP and myself know about bracing for enclosures. Is theres a cut off point where you HAVE TO get bracing, or can you just make it and not worry about needing it or not needing it. How do you tell if an enclosure needs bracing?
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11-01-2009, 01:37 AM
 
I finally got to do a some work on it today. Hopefully tomorrow I will finish assembly. I'm not going to worry about what it looks like for now I just want to hear it!!!





 
 
 
 
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11-01-2009, 07:17 AM
 
Looking good! What's the rod used for?
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11-01-2009, 11:01 AM
 
I was trying to figure out a way to get a brace from front to back. There isn't much space to attach one to the front. I need to cut out the hole for the amp to see how low I can bring the bar in the back.
 
 
 
 
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11-01-2009, 11:25 AM
 
I am not expert...but that brace doesn't seem to be doing anything.

If i did the port like you did, i would be building 2 panel braces ..one going straight down (full panel with large hole cut into it) that goes perpendicular to the bottom of the port. One owuld be right at the front edge...the other would be back further and be right about the 2/3 point on the box....

I built this one and its a tank:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1093893
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11-01-2009, 12:26 PM
 
That is a tank!

I don't think that bar is doing much either - I've moved it down a few inches.

This is what I had in mind -



What do u guys think?
 
 
 
 
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11-01-2009, 02:29 PM
 
look at the easy button some more...its not hard to build that type pf bracing...and notice the rails that run lengthwise on the vent....it just seems much more sturdy than using dowels or sticks....

But get alex and eD to weigh in...like i sad i am no expert here.
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11-03-2009, 05:12 PM
 
Ok - enclosure is assembled and very solid - sounds great.... in certain areas of my living room.


Quote:
Originally Posted by joeybutts View Post
yeah, corner loading may get you some response, tough thing is will it give you the response in the seating... It looks like it is firing next to an opening there which could hurt. audio physics are a crazy thing. Sometimes the subs work in the most predictable of places, sometimes in the least. just going to take time, move it around, see what works best. In my apt, the best place for the sound was about 8 ft to the left of my seating in the far corner with the sub on the wall to the right of the seating. It was the best compromise in my current situation.
I have moved the sub in several different locations. Problem is, I can't find a good spot for it. No matter where I put it, it's always much louder in the area at the end of my couch. (the area in the picture above). My guess is b/c that's pretty much the only corner in my living room. I'm going to try a few more things tonight.

Any thoughts/suggestions on how to get rid of that peak in the corner?
 
 
 
 
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11-03-2009, 05:37 PM
 
Any more complete picsof room?
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