[The Mechanic]

Whats goin on ppl. Im new to enclosures but have installed my entire audio system by myself, along with sways, springs, brakes, ect. Im comfortable taking on a project =)

I just bought 2 13ov D4's i want to port. I spoke with Alex from eD briefly and came to the conclusion that 32hz is a frequency to port at. Now as for the rest of the box, besides plugging numbers into WinISD to get parameters set, how can i dictate the width, depth and length of the box? I want to make it a bit different for my scion tc.

What programs do i use to get a nice blueprint of the design? I understand measure twice cut once but other than that, what else would I have to know to make a great box? I want zero leaks and stuff of the sort. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys!

Eddy

[punosion]

Originally Posted by The Mechanic

I understand measure once and cut twice

Measure twice, cut once. Cutting twice is OK if the first cut is under, but if it's over...you're screwed.

A lot of kids around here use Google SketchUp, so you might want to check that out. If you want some info on how to get it going, etc...don't look at me.

[The Mechanic]

lmao its what i meant to say, edited already =P Anybody have the 13ov d4 parameters for WinISD? Because i need WinISD to create the blueprint correct?

[punosion]

Originally Posted by The Mechanic

lmao its what i meant to say, edited already =P Anybody have the 13ov d4 parameters for WinISD? Because i need WinISD to create the blueprint correct?

Just a bit of healthy ribbing, 'ya know...gotta' make the newbies feel welcome.

Maybe someone else can step in and help you out with utilizing the two programs to their maximum potential. My style lately has been finding a sub that can work in infinite baffle and just building a F***ing Huge Box for it...works for me, but not at all for most others.

[chaos gt]

Originally Posted by The Mechanic

lmao its what i meant to say, edited already =P Anybody have the 13ov d4 parameters for WinISD? Because i need WinISD to create the blueprint correct?

who needs WinISD?? now that you're on ICIX you've got Renzo, aka z-lite. he even has a tC.

but seriously, if you give the dimensions you want to work with, someone on here would gladly knock out some specs for you.

[UnknownAudio]

Originally Posted by The Mechanic

Now as for the rest of the box, besides plugging numbers into WinISD to get parameters set, how can i dictate the width, depth and length of the box? I want to make it a bit different for my scion tc.

You can only control the volume in WinISD... then you have to do the math to work up the dim's yourself to reach the target volume.

Originally Posted by The Mechanic

What programs do i use to get a nice blueprint of the design? I understand measure twice cut once but other than that, what else would I have to know to make a great box?

As stated above... GoogleSketchUp is a good CAD like tool. Works well for making a 3D image of what you hope your box to look like when finished.

Originally Posted by The Mechanic

I want zero leaks and stuff of the sort. Any help would be appreciated.

Use some good woodglue such as Titebond III or Liquid Nails Const. Adhsv., predrill and countersink your screws so that you can use filler on top of them for a stealth look and they can not back out this way. I also use 1/4 dowel rods cut to 3/4" length and use atleast 4-6 for every joint (4-6 for every 12" of joint... so 12-18 for a 36" joint) and lastly make sure to use some type of silicone sealant on the inside of all your joints after you have it built (do most of the seams before the last side is put on, then after you make you sub cutouts, seal the final seams)
Sealing isn't as important on a ported enclosure as it is on a sealed enclosure... but I always use foam gasket tape around the sub mounting holes as well... even in a ported box... It cant hurt anything!

[z-lite]

Originally Posted by chaos gt

who needs WinISD?? now that you're on ICIX you've got Renzo, aka z-lite. he even has a tC.

but seriously, if you give the dimensions you want to work with, someone on here would gladly knock out some specs for you.

Mmmmm yea, just whore me out why don't ya

[Gummie]

What everyone else said pretty much - use winISD to figure out what volume and tuning you want to shoot for, then carry those numbers over to some sort of CAD software to design your box. Just keep in mind that the volume displaced by your port and driver(s) doesn't count toward the box volume.

[bluz28]

Hi all, Let me make this easy for you. http://www.reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html

[The Mechanic]

I put these values into WinISD. Now my questions are, where do i find the Pe, Le, Z, and Dia values? They dont look like they are listed in the ed 13ov page. As for diameter, i use the coutout diameter instead of the outside diameter, correct? And, is there any unit conversions i need to do or are there values plug and play? Thanks!

Qts .28
Qms 3.3
Vas 176
Qes .30
FS 21hz
SPL 89.1
R 8.3
Pe ?
Le ?
BL: 21.7
Xmax 18.3
Dia 11
Z ?
SD 545

[The Mechanic]

Btw, plan on plugging these values into the Re calculator, taking the easier way out lol =P It gives me all the dimensions for the board. Thanks Bluz!!

[alexlindeman]

Originally Posted by bluz28

Hi all, Let me make this easy for you. http://www.reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html

The reaudio box builder is known to have flaws.

It calculates port length wrong.

I think Chris did some comparisons at one point.

[UnknownAudio]

I just use WinISD for my total volume and port length and then verify the #'s the old fashioned way... I dont trust box calculators... but then im old and stubborn!

[The Mechanic]

Hmm, crap. Ill get an architect friend of mine to help me out. As for the Pe, Le, Z and Diameter values, are they correct?

[nik1818]

i typically dont use those values when i work with WinISD, since they arent really necessary.

if i remember correctly, Pe is the total power into the enclosure, Le is the maximum impedance of the speaker, Z is something irrelevant, and diameter is redundant because the Sd is the actual surface area of the driver, which you already have.

by the way, if you're going to use liquid nails get the blue color tubes marked Heavy Duty. i'm going to try working with wood glue on some stuff soon, but i like the liquid nails for butted joints that just arent perfect. and when the excess squeezes out on the inside of the box, you can run your finger through it (pressing it into the seam) to seal things up the same way you would with caulk.

some guys use screws, but i use an air powered Brad nailer, which is plenty sufficient. when i work with 3/4" wood, i shoot 1 1/4" nails, usually 2 to 2 1/2 inches apart.

[BradSk88]

Z is the "rated" impedance of the driver, so yes, it's irrelevant.

[The Mechanic]

im going to post a screenshot of my driver page. If we all agree, ill take those values. Then ill figure out how to use the rest of WinISD lol. Im getting kind of discouraged because theres so much i dont understand. But it was the same way when i was edead'n my whole car and running all the wires, not to mention the tuning =P

[CorradoG60]

Le is the inductance of the drivers voice coil. It is very relevant.

[The Mechanic]

hmm that sucks because i dont have that value =\ Ill call eD tomorrow and see what they say. I want to get the MDF tomorrow, found a guy whos gonna cut the wood to whatever sizes i want. I want to plug my box n sub in on monday!! =P

[Gramps]

I like to use golden ratios when space permits. When you find the box volume you're going with, take the cube root of it. Call this value "x". Golden ratios would be L=1.25(x), W=(x), H=0.8(x). Use these as internal measurements.